Occupying an unassuming and long dormant nook along Surf Parade in Coolangatta (next door to Ottimo gelateria), Bar Evelyn opened in September last year and has been quietly winning over the local populace with snacks, sips and woodfired pizza ever since. While beachside Coolangatta might seem like an unconventional detour from Melbourne’s buzzing hospitality scene – with venues such as Nieuw Amsterdam, Ramblr, Leonard’s House of Love and Leonardo’s Pizza Palace peppered across Nick’s CV – it’s actually a homecoming for the celebrated chef, who got his start working at local institution Earth and Sea pizza at just 14 years old. While the style of pizza may have changed somewhat, one thing that hasn’t is Nick’s love for the Gold Coast, so when it came to the all-important question of ‘where’, Coolangatta was an obvious choice. “We love that we can pour beers and stare at the ocean, you just don’t get that in Melbourne,” Mark says. “Coolangatta feels almost lost in time, that’s what we love about it. It’s very honest here, it still feels like an old surf town.”
Named after Nick’s mother, Bar Evelyn has brought a little taste of Melbourne to the southern Gold Coast, with a quaint diner-style fit-out featuring a couple of leather-clad booths and a clutch of bar stools framing a sizeable L-shaped bar. Having the bar take up the majority of the internal footprint was a deliberate move. “We feel like that’s a very Melbourne thing to do, and something that we felt was a little bit different to what’s currently in Coolangatta,” Mark said. As it turns out, they were right as the bar stools have become the venue’s most coveted. Out the front, a scattering of low-set tables adorned with brightly coloured tablecloths fill the alfresco space. The aroma of woodfired pizza smoldering away in the oven creeps out from the open kitchen, filling the air and luring passers-by. Within minutes of opening, every one of the bar stools is occupied. The vibe at Bar Evelyn is intended to evolve as the evening rolls on. Families fresh off the beach popping in for an early bite, the full dinner service, and, finally, those who swing by for a post-feed negroni.
When it comes to the fare, Bar Evelyn dishes up a succinct menu of snacks and share plates, including starters of pickled mussels with cucumber paprika oil and parsley, eggplant dip with a ring of fresh cucumber served with flatbread and seared beef tonatto with tuna sauce, pickled shallots and dill. There are a couple of portions of pasta vying for your attention but it’s the pizza that has people following their nose. The somewhat controversial pineapple and jalapeno pizza is here to sway those who staunchly believe that pineapple has no place on pizza (it absolutely does when paired with fiery jalapeno, tomato, mozzarella and fior de latte) while the lamb and harissa pizza topped with a swirl of macadamia crema is an unexpected-yet-delicious addition. As for the booze, Bar Evelyn doesn’t try to overwhelm you with choices. Instead, there’s a scattering of six signature concoctions alongside classics that are available upon request. The limoncello margarita (Altos Blanco tequila, limoncello, lemon, sugar, salt) and the Rhubi Yuzu negroni (Rhubi rhubarb liqueur, Four Pillars yuzu gin, sweet vermouth) are two of the standouts. There’s a selection of beers on tap alongside a delightful line-up of new-wave wines including sparkling, white, rosé, orange and red.
Bar Evelyn is open from Wednesday to Sunday. Skip over to our Stumble Guide for opening times.